Chapter 10: Kathmandu

Introduction: A Glimpse of the Nepalese Capital

The chapter "Kathmandu," extracted from Vikram Seth's travelogue 'Heaven Lake,' offers a vivid and multi-sensory account of the author's experiences in Nepal's capital city. Seth provides a detailed description of two prominent Hindu and Buddhist shrines, Pashupatinath Temple and Boudhanath Stupa, contrasting their atmosphere, and then explores the bustling and diverse streets of Kathmandu. The chapter captures the essence of the city's spiritual devotion, vibrant street life, and the unique sounds that characterize it.

Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu.

Pashupatinath Temple: A Hub of Activity

The author first visits Pashupatinath Temple, a sacred Hindu shrine. He describes it as a scene of "feverish confusion," bustling with priests, hawkers, devotees, tourists, cows, monkeys, pigeons, and dogs. There is a continuous stream of activity, including people bathing in the Bagmati River (which flows beside the temple), washerwomen at its banks, and dead bodies being cremated. The atmosphere is chaotic but undeniably spiritual, with a sense of reverence and life's cycle unfolding openly. The author notes the strict entry rules for Hindus only in certain areas and the general sense of tolerant chaos.

Boudhanath Stupa in Kathmandu.

Boudhanath Stupa: An Oasis of Tranquility

In stark contrast to Pashupatinath, the Boudhanath Stupa presents a sense of "stillness" and "serenity." This large Buddhist shrine has a peaceful, expansive white dome with Tibetan-speaking people walking around its immense circular base. There's a noticeable absence of the crowds and commercialism seen at Pashupatinath. The author finds a sense of calm and quiet reverence here, reflecting the core principles of Buddhism. The differences between the two sites highlight Kathmandu's diverse spiritual landscape.

Kathmandu's Streets and Sounds

After visiting the temples, the author wanders through Kathmandu's streets, which he describes as "busy" and "noisy." He encounters various street vendors selling postcards, fruit, flutes, and other souvenirs. He notes the blaring film songs from radios, car horns, cycle bells, and the cries of vendors. Despite the sensory overload, he finds a certain charm in the city's vibrant and uninhibited life. The chapter concludes with the author reflecting on the unique appeal of flute music, as he sees a flute seller with a pole bearing many flutes, emphasizing the pervasive sounds of the city.

Thinking About the Text (Questions & Answers)

I. Answer these questions in a few words or a couple of sentences each.

  1. Which two temples does the author visit in Kathmandu?

    The author visits Pashupatinath Temple (Hindu) and Boudhanath Stupa (Buddhist).

  2. How does the author describe the atmosphere at Pashupatinath Temple?

    He describes it as a place of "feverish confusion," bustling with crowds, priests, hawkers, and animals, with a general air of tolerant chaos.

  3. What is the Bagmati River associated with?

    The Bagmati River is a sacred river associated with Pashupatinath Temple, where devotees bathe and cremations take place on its banks.

  4. How is the atmosphere at Boudhanath Stupa different from Pashupatinath?

    Boudhanath Stupa is described as an "haven of stillness," with a sense of quiet reverence and serenity, in stark contrast to the chaotic activity at Pashupatinath.

  5. What sounds does the author hear in the streets of Kathmandu?

    He hears film songs, car horns, cycle bells, and the cries of vendors.

  6. What object particularly fascinates the author in the street?

    The author is particularly fascinated by a flute seller with a pole of many flutes.

II. Answer each of these questions in a short paragraph (about 30 words).

  1. Describe the activities seen at Pashupatinath Temple.

    Pashupatinath Temple is crowded with priests, devotees, hawkers, and animals. People offer sacrifices, bathe in the Bagmati River, and cremations are performed on its banks.

  2. Why does the author contrast the two temples?

    The author contrasts the two temples to highlight Kathmandu's spiritual diversity. Pashupatinath represents a bustling, chaotic Hindu devotion, while Boudhanath offers a serene, quiet Buddhist experience.

  3. What does the author mean by "tolerance" in Kathmandu streets?

    He means that despite the chaos, noise, and various activities, there is an acceptance and coexistence of different people, sounds, and sights, creating a unique urban tapestry.

  4. How does the author describe the street life in Kathmandu?

    The street life is busy, noisy, and full of commercial activity. He describes it as a "feverishly active" place with diverse shops and hawkers.

III. Answer each of these questions in two or three paragraphs (100–150 words).

  1. Contrast the atmosphere at the Pashupatinath Temple and the Boudhanath Stupa.

    The Pashupatinath Temple and the Boudhanath Stupa present a striking contrast in atmosphere, reflecting the diverse religious practices and energies within Kathmandu. Pashupatinath, a significant Hindu shrine, is characterized by its "feverish confusion" and chaotic energy. The air is thick with the buzz of activity: priests, hawkers, devotees, tourists, cows, monkeys, and pigeons all contribute to a constant clamor. There's a strong sense of life and death coexisting, with the Bagmati River flowing alongside where ritual bathing and cremations occur publicly. The author notes a "tolerant chaos" and a lack of strict decorum, with everyone jostling for space and performing rituals openly.

    In stark opposition, the Boudhanath Stupa, a large Buddhist monument, offers an "oasis of stillness" and serenity. It is a vast, white dome, around which Tibetan-speaking Buddhist monks and devotees circumambulate quietly. The atmosphere is calm, contemplative, and less commercialized. The absence of the frenetic activity seen at Pashupatinath allows for a deeper sense of peace and spiritual reflection. This contrast effectively illustrates the rich tapestry of spiritual experiences available in Kathmandu, from the bustling and vibrant Hindu devotion to the tranquil and meditative Buddhist traditions.

  2. What is the author's overall impression of Kathmandu?

    The author, Vikram Seth, has a complex and multi-faceted impression of Kathmandu, seeing it as both chaotic and charming. He is struck by the city's vibrant spiritual life, evident in the stark contrasts between the bustling Pashupatinath Temple and the serene Boudhanath Stupa. This spiritual diversity is a key aspect of his experience.

    Beyond the temples, Kathmandu's streets are presented as a sensory overload—noisy with blaring music, honking vehicles, and the constant calls of vendors. Despite this "noisy confusion," Seth finds an undeniable fascination and vitality in the city's uninhibited street life. He observes the unique cultural elements, like the flute seller, which add to the city's distinct character. Ultimately, his impression is one of a city that embraces its myriad contradictions, offering a rich and overwhelming experience that is both captivating and exhausting, a blend of ancient spirituality and modern urban chaos.

(Uses browser's print-to-PDF. Appearance may vary.)